首先說說好西裝和差西裝區別在哪里。
First of all, what is the difference between a good suit and a bad suit?.
好西裝能讓一個中年發福的糟老頭子穿出霸道總裁的感覺；差西裝能讓一個玉樹臨風185的小伙穿出房屋中介的feel....
Good suit can make a middle-aged fat old man out of overbearing president feeling; poor suit can let a guy out of 185 tall，stately and handsome housing intermediary. Feel...
西裝成衣都是標準碼，除非你的身材非常標準，否則穿上去必然有不合身的地方，不去談論面料，版型，工藝，如果是不合身，那就是差的。
Suits and ready-made clothes are standard codes, unless your body is very standard, otherwise wear must have a place that does not fit, do not talk about fabric, version, process, if it does not fit, that is poor.
而定制西裝需要從布料選擇到量身定制，再到打版裁剪制作，后上身進行后的修改。
And custom suits from cloth selection to tailor-made, and then to the plate cutting production, and finally make the last modification of the upper body.
像在美國華爾街，幾乎所有從事投行人士都會選擇去定制西裝，即使是入門級別的菜鳥也需要，公司甚至會為他們提供置裝費用。
Like in the Wall Street, almost all investment bankers will choose to tailor their suits, even if entry-level beginners are needed, and the company will even provide them with installation costs.
同樣在國內從高管級別的人士開始都應該要嘗試開始定制西裝而不是去購買品牌，畢竟就高端人士來說，西裝撞衫可是比女士撞衫還要來的尷尬。
Also in the domestic level from the beginning of executives who should try to start a tailored suit rather than buying top brands, after all, is the high-end, but also suit Zhuangshan than Zhuangshan to the embarrassment of ms..
那么對于初次嘗試定制的新手來說，做好一件西服要注意哪些點呢？
So, for the first attempt to customize the novice, do a good suit to pay attention to what point?
1、選一個讓你心情愉悅的定制店
1. Choose a custom shop that makes you feel good
首先，要選一個讓你心情愉悅的私人定制店，至少在這里會令你有種賓至如歸的感覺。很多高級的西裝定制店環境優雅服務周到，不但能給你提供各種酒水點心，更重要的是有專人會結合你的身材特點和氣質，根據工作或是活動的場合來給你各種的建議，讓你看起來比原來更更有自信。

First, choose a private custom store that makes you feel good, at least here, to make you feel at home. Many senior suit custom shop environment elegant and thoughtful service, not only can provide you with a variety of drinks snacks, more important is to have someone with your temperament and body characteristics, according to the work or activities of the various occasions to give you professional advice, make you look more confident and more professional than the original.
2、一個經驗老道的量體師傅
2, an experienced master of measurement
在定制行業有一句老話叫“三分量，七分做”，可見一個經驗老道的量體師傅有多么重要。
In the custom industry, there is an old saying called "three components, seven points to do", which shows how important an experienced master of measurement is.
每個人因為先天身體條件和后期生活習慣不同導致身材差異很大，細節直接影響每件西裝的版型。你去定做一件西服，花在量體上的時間還真的比你想像中要長
Each person has different body shapes due to different physical conditions and later life habits, and the details directly affect the version of each suit. You go to order a suit, and the amount of time spent on it is really longer than you think
真正有經驗有本事的的量體師，摸摸你的骨頭肌肉，結合你的職業特征，就知道再過幾年你能吃胖幾斤，身材是否會走形，做衣服的時候，要和裁剪打版的師傅如何溝通，知道你體型較瘦或者較胖，如何彌補缺陷，讓做出來的衣服更飽滿或者貼合身體曲線。
Really have the ability to experience the amount of body division, touch your head muscles, combined with the characteristics of your occupation, you know a few years you can eat several kilograms of fat, the body will take shape, when making clothes, how to play version and cutting of the master communication, know you lean or fat and how to make up for the defects, make the clothes more plump or fit the body curve.
3、了解自己的身材適合的版型
3, understand your body for the appropriate version
雖然西裝的款式也受流行趨勢的影響，但它大體上可以分為三種版型。不管當下流行的趨勢如何，英國、美國、意大利這三個的西裝風格，都會在西裝的外觀輪廓中有所體現。
Although the style of suit is influenced by the fashion trend, it can be roughly divided into three versions. No matter how popular the current trend is, the suit styles of the three countries, Britain, the United States and Italy, will be reflected in the outline of the suit.
它們個字顯著的特點如下：英國西裝的肩部呈凹型，意大利西裝有著注重身體曲線的優雅輪廓，美國西裝腰部呈簡型。每個人的身材比例不同，著裝風格各異，因此了解自己的身材，根據每個西裝的不同特點，才能在定制自己西裝的時候有所針對性。
Their most striking features are as follows: the shoulders of British suits are concave, and the Italy suits have an elegant outline of body curves. The waist of American suits is simple. Each person has a different body size and different styles of dress, so understanding their own body, according to the different characteristics of each country suit, in order to tailor their own suits when targeted.

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